My Salty Obsession

Q. Questions & A. Answers

Q. What should I get to keep my tank clean?

• Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)- is a great thing to have, they will keep your fish healthy. There are different types of cleaner shrimp.
  
• Mexican Red-Leg Hermit Crab (Coenobita species)- This little guy will eat meaty bits of seafood, algae and detfitus.
  
• Blue Leg Hermit Crab (Phimochirus operculatus)- Same as the Mexican Red- Leg Hermit Crab, meaty bits of seafood, algae and detritus.
  
• Turbo Mexican Snail (Turbo fluctuosa)- Will eat Hair algae.
• Margarita snails (Margarites pupillus)- Another great source for getting rid of algae.
  
• Nassarius snails (Nassarius sp.)- A great addition to any tank, these guys bury themselves in sand beds. Be sure your sand beds are deep enough.
  

       A.  This is just an example of many different types of snails, crabs and shrimp used to help maintain a healthy tank. The main idea for a clean up crew is to keep algae down and for these guys to clean up any food that was not eaten. You could also get yourself a cucumber and or starfish to help with your clean up crew.

Q. The algae grows back rapidly after I clean my tank. What is wrong and how can I fix it?

       A.  It is normal for algae to begin to return within two weeks after being removed. Algae multiply rapidly. If, however, algae returns with in a day or two, this may indicate a problem with either light or water quality. Algae requires light and nutrients to grow. If the tank receives too much light, is over-fed, or is over-stocked, algae problems will usually occur. If the aquarium is a reef tank using metal halide lighting which is on for twelve hours or more each day, rapid algae growth on the aquarium sides could be normal. You should experiment with photoperiod to see if you can strike a balance between algae growth and the health of the corals. Excessive algae growth on a live-reef structure is not normal. Good water flow and alternating flow should exist in a reef tank. Temperature may need control through use of a chiller. Algae consuming animals should be present in every reef, such as Blue-legged Hermit Crabs, Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Snails, and Urchins. Live rock structures should be built with spaces to allow good flow. Excessive light and/or water quality parameters should be checked and corrected if necessary. An over-fed or over-stocked aquarium will result in the accumulation of organics that algae feed on, resulting in rapid algae growth. Warmer aquariums grow algae faster. Fish-only tanks should be 78ºF, and reef tanks and planted aquarium ideally should be 74ºF to 76ºF. If the aquarium receives direct, or bright indirect natural sunlight from a nearby window, draw the blinds or move the aquarium! In a fish-only aquarium, lights should be on for about eight hours. If the lights are on longer, algae will return at a more rapid rate. Aquarium lights should never be on for more than twelve hours. This grows more algae and is bad for the fish. Cleaning an aquarium too thoroughly makes algae grow back faster! Leave a little algae in your tank when you clean.

Q. How much should I feed my fish?

      A.   I would recommend feeding fish twice a day, using different foods at each feeding to vary the diet. Take care not to over-feed your tank. When feeding your fish, feed them only as much as they can eat in a few minutes - a little at a time! Take a small amount of food, such as several flakes, and drop it into the tank. Then stand away from the aquarium, and watch your fish eat. When the fish have finished eating the first portion, drop a few more pieces in, and let them finish those. After two or three portions, you’ll notice that the fish either lose interest, or suck in the food and spit it out. Stop feeding! Your fish aren’t hungry anymore! Never throw in a "pinch" of food. A "pinch" is usually TOO MUCH. When feeding frozen food, take a very small portion (or one cube), and allow it to partially defrost before feeding. Feed as you would dry flake foods, breaking off small pieces of the partially defrosted food and waiting for your fish to eat each piece before adding more to the aquarium. If some of your fish are smaller or more timid about eating, don’t worry-they’ll get their share. As the larger, more aggressive fish get full, they’ll slow down on their feeding, and the smaller fish will "clean up" the leftovers.

Q. I don't know much about Protein Skimmers, what do they do and how much do they cost?

       A.  A protein skimmer, or foam fractionator removes organics in your tank by way of mass air bubbles. When the water passes through the skimmer, the air bubbles it produces allows the chemical compounds of organics to attach to the bubbles and ride to the surface where this gunk is collected in a cup and disposed of. As far as cost, they can range anywhere from about $50.00 up to hundreds of dollars. There are various types of skimmers and set ups; in-tank, hang-on-tank, in-sump, as well as free standing.

Q. When is Live Rock, Live?

       A.  This is the most debated question.  Like many aquarists, some say YES, rock is only live when things can be seen growing on it. Some say NO, with reasoning being that just because you cannot SEE something growing doesn't mean it isn't there. I personally feel that just because you can't see it doesn't mean it is not there! 

• It is a misconception that the rock itself is alive. What makes it live are the many forms of micro and macro marine organisms that live on and inside of it. Rocks, coral rubble, and other pieces of natural reef based materials are only made up of the calcium carbonate skeletons of long dead corals and other calcareous organisms.
• Dried pieces of rock are not alive if they have not been kept in saltwater.
• When you put dried pieces of rock into a saltwater aquarium they become live, but not immediately. It takes time for beneficial bacteria to populate it and marine organisms to begin growing on it.
• When you transport or ship rock that has been kept or cured in a saltwater system to a new location, as long as it has been moved or shipped properly it is still alive when you place it into another aquarium.
• Live rock is ONLY considered to be such when the growth of marine life such as coraline algae, micro and macroalga, sponges, tube worms, and/or other types of sessile invertebrates are "visibly" present.

Q. What do I do with my old filtration system?

      A.  I took my old filter, gutted it out and inserted a sack filled with carbon. Any cheap filter will work for this. I decided to do this after I notice a chemical film starting to build up on my water surface. This film will not allow the gasses in your tank to escape and you will loose your fish! Be warned.

Q. How many fish can I keep in my saltwater tank?

        A. It depends on how large your tank is  and how do they act. If you keep peaceful fish, then you can put more fish. If you raise aggressive and territorial fish, then you can keep only a few specimens in general. If you were in a tank would you want a whole bunch of fish nipping at you? Would you want to be in an over crowded tank? I personally don't like being in large crowds. So use your best judgement and look up information on a fish you may want before you buy it. Don't forget, most saltwater fish grow to very large sizes.

Q. Do Saltwater fish need hiding places? How do I create that?

       A.  Most fish hide in stones, small caves or in other poisonous creatures, like clowns and anemones. My suggestion for this solution is to get Live Rock, create stable structures with your rock by stacking and shaping them the way you like. My live rock has plenty of hiding places for my fish. Live Rock has natural holes as well. If you are creating a fish only tank,. my suggestion is to find yourself some "cave like" structures to place in your tank.

Q. Is High or Low Salinity Good for my Tank?

       A.  No, it is not good. If there is too much salt in the water, the fish lose more liquid than it could accept and they get dehydrated. If you don't have enough, well then you might as well have freshwater fish. Of course some fish, for example from the Red Sea need more salt in the water than fish from the Indian Ocean. You should know where your fish come from, or how much salt did they have in the water they lived in. My salinity is .025.

Q. Can saltwater tanks harm humans?

       A.  I don't believe there has ever been any reports of saltwater hobbyist dying or getting greatly ill housing saltwater aquariums however there are some that may have food allergies when feeding there tanks. If you know of any allergies you may have you should read the ingredients on your fish food. If you have allergies to any of these ingredients you should consider using gloves or have someone else in your family feed your tank. I would strongly urge you not to drink any chemicals or the saltwater. By doing so you probably would get greatly ill. Some believe that keeping saltwater aquariums are actually healthy for humans. Personally, I fall in with the people who believe its healthy for humans. "There are days when I just want to explode, I sit, stare at my tank and it calms my nerves!"

Q. What do I do if there is to much salt in my water?

      A. If there is too much salt because of the evaporation, then the easiest way to get the water back to normal is to put some fresh water into your tank. Naturally, clean water only. Mixing the water is the easiest and fastest way. I use filtered water, I do not recommend tap water unless you have a filtration system attached. 

Q. What is Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates?

      A. Ammonia is produced by decaying plants, uneaten food and decomposing fish waste. One group of bacteria’s purpose is to convert the ammonia by binding it with water and the resulting chemical is nitrite. This is when another group of bacteria does its job. They take the nitrite and bind it with water forming the chemical nitrate. The presence of ammonia and nitrites are extremely toxic to fish while nitrate levels are less toxic unless harmful levels occur. By using a master test kit found in any aquatic retail store, you can test your aquarium water levels to check for the presence of these harmful chemicals. Frequent partial water changes can help prevent nitrates from collecting in harmful amounts in the aquarium. If this process of poop turning into chemicals doesn't fancy you keep reading.

• Ammonia (NH₃) is a chemical that is highly toxic to fish even in small amounts. Ammonia toxicity causes severe stress to fish making them more susceptible to disease and death. This chemical also causes damage to gill membranes and inhibits normal respiratory function. It is important to test the aquarium regularly for this chemical; once a month if your tank is healthy but more often if there are signs of sickness or death. When using a testing kit ammonia traces should be undetectable in your results. The test results are measured in ppm or parts per million and your results should ideally read 0ppm. If any traceable amounts are present Carbon can also be used in the filtration process to help remove ammonia to improve water quality. It is important to check daily to see if your filter is clean and running properly. If a    filter gets too dirty or breaks down it could result in the presence of toxic ammonia in the tank. Take special care to not over feed the fish not only for their well-being but also because this is important in aquarium maintenance and filtration care. Do not overstock the aquarium because more fish mean more waste.
• When the ammonium ion (NH₄⁺) is mixed with water the beneficial bacteria can then convert the ammonia into nitrite (NO₂^-). Much like ammonia, nitrite is also toxic and can be harmful towards fish. If traces of nitrites are in the aquarium it can cause severe stress to the fish. This leads to respiratory hardship and a weakened immune system, which makes the fish more susceptible to disease and death. To prevent this from happening you must be sure to test for nitrite periodically just as you would for ammonia. When testing for ammonia, having a result of 0ppm is not an indication of what your test results should be for nitrite or nitrate. It is very important to test for each substance individually as part of your routine aquarium maintenance.
 
• When the substance nitrite (NO₂^-) mixes with water the beneficial bacteria can then convert the nitrite into nitrate (NO₃^-). This substance called nitrate is seemingly harmless towards fish but in higher concentrations it is not. Unlike ammonia and nitrite, nitrate can be present in the aquarium as it usually is to a certain extent. In the past it was believed to be harmless towards fish but studies show that the over concentration of this chemical in the aquarium can have adverse effects on the health and wellness of fish. If there is an over abundance of nitrate in the tank it could be an indication that there is too much fish and plant waste. If not dealt with properly, this problem will inevitably lead to diseased, unhealthy fish. Another consequence of too much nitrate is algae. Nitrates promote the growth of algae which can result in a cloudy tank with increasing amounts of the toxic ammonia and nitrite. This is why it is so important to test for nitrate even though it’s ok to have a slight amount in the aquarium. Your nitrate test results should be 40ppm or less, the lower the better. If your nitrate test results show that excessive amounts are present there are several ways to remove enough nitrates for the aquarium water to be safe once again. Partial water changes should be performed at once if the levels are exceedingly high. A tap water filter can be used to remove all chemicals from the water including ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If this does not produce satisfactory results you might want to try a nitrate removing filter.